I lie somnolescent on a sun lounger… lulled into a dreamy state by the sound of water lapping at the boat’s sides, the warmth of the sun on my skin and the cool breeze.
The cries of a fish eagle cause me to stir and sleepily I sit and look outward. We are cruising past the shore with its iconic rim of dead trees. In one of the skeletal branches, the impressive bird is perched, throwing his head back as he calls, the eery cry echoing across the vast lake. I am on a houseboat in the midst of a vast, manmade lake created when the massive Kariba Hydroelectric Dam was erected on the Zambezi River in 1958.
Despite its controversial start, the shores of the lake provide crucial habitat for several species and it is a great place for bird and animal watching, fishing and relaxing. One of the best ways to experience this is as I am now, on a houseboat. There are many advantages to this style of travel- such as unpacking once but getting to travel between destinations, being on the water and the ability to choose self-catering or fully catered.
But back to the present moment! I walk across the boat’s top deck, help myself to an ice cold ‘Mazoe’ (Zimbabwe’s orange juice) and soda and join the rest of the group in planning the rest of the day. We decide to take out one of the small boats we are trailing behind us in the evening to fish, enjoy a sundowner and watch for animals along the lakeshore.
There’s something special about game viewing from the water. Instead of driving bumpy roads or spending long hours inside a vehicle, on Lake Kariba’s houseboats the game viewing is quiet, and the animals often come to you, relaxed in a way they wouldn’t be if you were on land.
The anglers among us are happy when we go out with one even catching a large fighting tigerfish- something that causes much excitement on the small boat as he tries to reel it in. It is released shortly after. However, it is the sight of a mighty bull elephant placidly grazing on the lakeshore as the sun sets in a fiery glow that stays with me.
We return to the houseboat as the sky darkens and stars appear. The onboard chef has conjured a delicious meal and we enjoy it with plenty of wine and the good cheer that comes from having a group of friends in close quarters.
As I drift off to sleep the boat moves slowly and steadily towards a new destination. I am content in the knowledge that I have a few more days of this happy routine; reading, drinking, eating, taking dips in the boat’s plunge pool and watching the shore for wild animals.
- What to see: Common sightings are buffalo, zebra, waterbuck, impala and hundreds of elephants every day. There is an amazing array of birds at Lake Kariba; including kingfishers, cormorants, storks, herons and of course the ubiquitous fish eagle.
- When to go: The area generally has very hot summers, averaging 38 degrees Celsius. The winters are usually mild with an average temperature of 25 degrees Celsius. Wintertime, from April to August, is considered the best time to go to Kariba as many animals visit the lakeshore in this dry time.
